Surf Tips from Van Vu, Daniel Thomson, Michael Frampton, and Barton Lynch
This September was pumping with tips on building paddle strength, sticking to the basics, board designs that unlock speed and flow, reading waves, choosing the right board, and keeping the stoke alive.
Here’s a quick recap of our podcasts this month:
- Your Cheatcode to Surf Progression w/ Van Vu
- Daniel “Tomo” Thomson: The Future of Surfboard Design
- Mike of Surf Mastery: Fundamentals of Surfing
- Barton Lynch: Surfing as a Journey of Self-discovery
Check out the podcast video below along with some of our favorite tips from our guest.
“If you look at a good surfer, they have a really wide funnel. In an hour, they can identify and catch 10 waves in a session. They have the paddle power in good shape to catch nine of them, then they can pop up on eight of them. Now, compare a beginner intermediate surfer. In that same hour they may only see six waves. They may only have the paddle power to catch three of them. They pop up on two of them and only on one of 'em did they even get to ride it”
“The biggest resource is just your time. So if you're going to spend all this money to go on a surf trip, and then you're going to roll up on that surf trip, and then halfway through the surf trip you're just smoked and you can't even surf and you're just in pain, and then you just spend half that trip just being bummed, looking at all these other people just getting the waves of their life, but you can't even paddle anymore. You're just so tired. That's the most frustrating thing in the world. So why not just dedicate a little bit of time, train beforehand and then roll up and then you're going to be having the time of your life, and that's the key thing to accelerating your progression as well.”
- Van Vu
“When Kelly was in Oz last year, I connected with him and I said, dude, just get a few waves on this board. So we had a little surf out in front of his place at Palm Beach and he was surfing like he got shot out of a cannon basically on a two foot wave and just punting air reverses, and all of a sudden he's like, “Holy crap, that thing's crazy, how much speed it's got, what is going on?”
“If you want to step a little bit more into the planing hull world, then the Cymatic would be the obvious choice and probably the best board out there to this point that captures that whole blend of performance and glide and speed and effortless of use.”
- Daniel Thomson
“What helped my surfing the most, I immediately think of Tom Carroll. When I started the podcast, I was actually training Tom Carroll as a personal trainer in the gym and he was the second guest. And one of the things he was talking about in that original interview was looking for the details in the wave.”
“My philosophy is that once you stand up on your surfboard with your feet in the right spot, on a good wave, the rest of surfing is easy. So what happens between when the surfboard is under your arm and under your feet? That is the hardest part of surfing, knowing where to go.”
- Michael Frampton
“To be able to understand and action what I'm saying, you have to have an enormous amount of trust and confidence in yourself and your ability to do something enough that you can step away and not try.”
“Reward is the feeling. It's not an egotistical moment of triumph. To find your surfing, you need to identify what part of it turns you on, what part of it makes you feel good.”
- Barton Lynch
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