The Secret to a Better Ride

Did you see that initial pump that keeps him high on the wave? That small adjustment is crucial because it gives him options.

Why Staying High on the Wave Matters

Your positioning on the wave determines what’s possible. Staying high on the wave serves 3 key purposes:

1. It buys you time to read the wave.
   The wave is always changing but by staying high, you give yourself a split second to assess what’s coming next and decide on the best approach.
   
   

2. It stores potential energy.
   If the oncoming section is prime for a bottom turn to a top turn, the higher you are on the wave, the more potential energy you’ll have because at any point you can drop down and get all the speed from gravity as you glide down the wave face and then redirect it into a bottom turn.
   
   

3. Keeping your line so you don’t lose the wave
   Alternatively, staying high helps maintain your line down the wave so you’ll have more speed. If the section is running fast, you’ll already be in a prime spot to pump and generate speed to make it around the section. On the other hand, if you drop too low too soon, you risk getting stuck in the flats while the wave runs away without you.

When to Break the Rule

Are there times when you should go straight to the bottom and set up for a turn? Sure. If the wave is steep and throwing, a quick drop to set a bottom turn might be the best call. But in most cases, making a habit of staying high on the wave gives you as many options as possible. It puts you in a position to react instead of being forced into a single option.

Watch the clip again and try to spot how that first pump shapes the rest of the ride. Next time you're in the water, see if you can apply this approach to your own surfing.

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