Exploring Surfboards & Intentions w/ Cliff Kapono
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In this episode we’ve got Cliff Kapono, a pro surfer and scientist from the Big Island of Hawaii. We speak about his approach to surfing growing up, from riding whatever boards were around to chasing the feeling of freedom and safety in the ocean. We then get into how his relationship with surfing changed over the years, and discuss the concept of chasing waves with inner peace. We also talk about his incredible work studying reef structures and their connection to surf breaks. And finally, Cliff also just came out with an amazing film, Circadian Rhythms, that encapsulates this circular story of his approach and relationship to surfing.
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Chapters
00:48 Paddle Power and Getting More Waves
01:31 Introducing Cliff Kapono and Circadian Rhythms
02:18 Growing Up Surfing on the Big Island
05:23 Boarding School and Weekend Surf Missions
10:15 Surf Culture, Boards, and Early Style
13:11 Surfing as Stability and Escape
16:44 Chasing Feeling Over Performance
18:56 Learning 360s, Airs, and Obsession
21:42 First Sessions at Pipeline
26:01 Stepping Away From Surfing
30:06 Boards as Tools for Feeling
35:44 Letting Go of Validation and Learning Turns
45:07 The Meaning Behind Circadian Rhythms
52:39 Surf Science, Reefs, and What’s Next
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